Up to four dives a day, straight from the whiteboard in the salon. Routes change with the season, the currents and what the guides spot, so no two trips are the same.
| Day | Atoll | Dive sites |
|---|---|---|
| Day1 | North Malé | Boarding at the Hulhumalé ferry dock at 9am, briefing, then a first check dive at Rasfari Beyru. |
| Day2 | Rasdhoo | Hithi Thila, Rasdhoo Peninsula and Madivaru Wall. Our first sharks on the second dive, in 29 to 30°C water. |
| Day3 | Rasdhoo · North Ari | Rasdhoo Peninsula again, then Gangehi Madiga and Fish Head. |
| Day4 | North Ari · South Ari | Fish Head again, Dhigaru Madiga, Kuda Rah Thila and Dhangethi Reef. Sharks, turtles, and a night dive. |
| Day5 | South Ari | Kahandu Giri, Moofushi Madiga twice and Manta Lagoon, plus an impromptu night dive with manta rays. |
| Day6 | North Ari | Fesdhoo Thila, Mushimasmigili Thila and Biyagiri. Two more mantas showed up out of nowhere. |
| Day7 | South Malé | Madhoo Paru, Cocoa Thila and a drift dive. You lose track of the days out here. |
| Day8 | South Malé | Velavaru Giri, Fushi Diga and Shark Alley. |
| Day9 | North Malé | Harbour Zoo, then dive number 26 to finish: tiger shark at 25 to 28 m, on the way back. Off the boat the next morning at 9am, straight to the airport. |
Once a month, Noah and I write about where we've been, the people we met along the way and where we're heading next. New guides land in your inbox first. No spam, ever.
A liveaboard asks for more preparation than a hotel. This is what we had to print and bring.
The standard diver medical questionnaire. Answer yes to any question that requires it and you need a doctor's sign-off before you fly. Print it and bring it.
Fill in, print and bring the boat's liability form and application.
Within 96 hours before your flight, fill in the Maldives declaration on imuga.immigration.gov.mv with a photo and a passport scan. Print the QR code for check-in.
Your passport must be valid at least 6 months after your return date.
Bring your certification card and your Nitrox card, and get dive insurance. We were advised DAN, which also offers travel cover.
Bring at least your own mask and fins. Wetsuits are not rented on board, so if you rent, do it at home where you can check the fit.
Bring US dollars in new, clean bills. Torn bills, bills with writing on them and 1$ bills are refused.
We landed the day before and slept in Hulhumalé, the island next to the airport, where the boat picks you up.
Simple room, but a beautiful beach right there, breakfast on the rooftop, and a 20 to 30 minute walk to the boat's meeting point.
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My first liveaboard, and it was amazing. Sharks, turtles, manta rays at night and two more that showed up out of nowhere, and a tiger shark on the very last dive. The crew was super nice and made everything easy.
The food was good and plentiful, maybe too plentiful: it got repetitive, and I sometimes had the feeling a lot went to waste. The boat felt very American in style, which makes sense, I was with an American group. Not a criticism, just good to know.
If I could choose again, I'd go slightly shorter. But if you are really into diving, I highly recommend the Maldives, and a liveaboard is the best way to see them.
The apps and services that make our trips easier. Some are affiliate links, they cost you nothing extra.
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Watch your home streaming services from abroad and stay secure on public wifi. Essential for long trips.
