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Road trip · Campervan

Scotland by Campervan

9 Days Through the Highlands and Skye

Glencoe · Isle of Skye · NC500 · Cairngorms

See the day by day↓
01 — Road trip

The trip in motion

02 — The road trip

Trip at a glance

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Scotland by campervanHighlands · Skye · NC500
Length9 days, Edinburgh to Edinburgh
RouteLoch Lomond, Glencoe, Isle of Skye, the west and north coast of the NC500, the Cairngorms
The vanRented with Roadsurfer, our very first campervan: 1,910€ for 10 days, full insurance included
NightsAll in public spots, no campsite stays
ServicesOnly two places to empty and refill: Camping Skye and Gairloch beach
DrivingOn the left, with many single-track roads
VanRoadsurfer, the company we rented from↗
Vinh and Lina above Clachtoll beach
NC500Clachtoll beach
03 — Itinerary

Day by day

No fixed plan and no campervan experience, just the road. Every day, even within the same day, the landscape changes completely: that's what we loved most.

DayWhereWhat we did and where we slept
Day1EdinburghA few hours in town: the castle, Calton Hill and haggis at Scott's Kitchen. Train from Waverley to Uphall, van pick-up at Roadsurfer, and a hunt for fresh water. Night at Loch Lomond.
Day2HighlandsAn easy walk on the Glencoe Lochan trail, then the Glenfinnan viaduct. 215 km in total. Night at Loch Cluanie.
Day3Isle of SkyeEilean Donan castle in the morning, the Skye bridge, a service stop at Camping Skye, lunch at the shellfish shack, then the Sligachan hike. Night by the road near Cuidrach.
Day4Isle of SkyeThe Quiraing, lunch at An Corran beach, Kilt Rock, part of the Old Man of Storr and a stop in Portree. Then an hour west for sunset and the night at Neist Point.
Day5Skye → mainlandA walk to Talisker Bay, oysters at The Oyster Shed, a cold dip at the Fairy Pools, and a last service stop before leaving Skye. Night at Loch Carron.
Day6NC500 · westA gentle morning walk at Applecross Bay, then Gairloch beach and its campervan services. Night improvised near Tournaig.
Day7NC500 · northTurquoise water at Achnahaird beach and an attempt at a cold swim, an afternoon walk at Clachtoll beach. Night in Durness.
Day8CairngormsA long walk on Balnakeil beach, Smoo Cave, then about 3h30 of driving to Glenmore in the Cairngorms. A walk around the loch and a canoe.
Day9EdinburghDrive back to Edinburgh, return the van, taxi to the airport.
Vinh and Lina at the Quiraing, Isle of Skye
Isle of SkyeThe Quiraing
A lamb on the cliffs at Neist Point
Neist PointNeighbours for the night
Sunset at Neist Point
Neist PointGolden hour
Turquoise water at Clachtoll beach
NC500Clachtoll beach

Come along for the ride

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04 — Van life

How it works

Our first campervan, and everything we wish we had known before picking it up.

Rules01

Where you can sleep

Scotland's famous wild camping right is for tents, not vehicles. Overnight parking in laybys and car parks is common, but always follow the signs, never use passing places, and leave no trace.

App02

Use park4night

Really useful to find spots for the night, but also public water and service points.

Services03

Plan your water stops

In 9 days we only needed two: Camping Skye, on the way in and out of Skye, just for the service, and Gairloch beach, with clean toilets, fresh water and waste disposal.

Nights04

Find your spot before sunset

Sometimes you just drive and improvise, hoping to find a spot before dark. It's part of the adventure, but start looking early.

Pace05

Don't rush Skye

We did the Quiraing and the Old Man of Storr on the same day and couldn't finish Storr. Give Skye one more day and take it slower.

Pick-up06

Negotiate the return time

Our van was an hour late at pick-up. We asked to return it two hours later in exchange, which let us drive straight to the airport.

05 — Getting there

From the airport to the van

Edinburgh is easy to reach and compact. If like us you have a few hours before picking up the van, everything is close.

Airport → townA direct bus, inexpensive, and you pay on board.
Town → vanDirect train from Edinburgh Waverley to Uphall, near the Roadsurfer pick-up point.
Last dayWe returned the van and took a taxi to the airport.
Prices
Campervan · 10 daysRoadsurfer · full insurance included1,910€ Waverley → UphallDirect train to the Roadsurfer pick-up£6.10
Glenfinnan viaductParking for a campervan£10
Durness → GlenmoreOur longest drive of the trip~3h30
06 — Food & verdicts

Eat, see, skip

The places worth the stop, and our honest take on the famous ones.

Where we ate

Scott's Kitchen, EdinburghHaggis and venison casserole. The haggis was actually really good
Google Maps ↗
Shellfish shack, SkyeLangoustines, scallops, oysters, crab, lobster. Really enjoyable
Google Maps ↗
The Oyster Shed, SkyeA lovely oyster break after Talisker Bay
Google Maps ↗
Honest verdicts

Not worth the hype

The Fairy Pools didn't impress us, maybe because there was no sun to light up the water. We even walked past them without noticing. The water is 100% cold though. Glenfinnan viaduct: you need to be a big Harry Potter fan, and parking is £10. Kilt Rock: a quick stop, only because it's on the way.

07 — Verdict

My honest
take

An amazing trip. Do it. We were probably lucky with the weather, but a campervan gives you a freedom we had never had before: you stop where you like, wake up by a loch, and change the plan whenever you want.

What we loved most is the variety. Every day, even within the same day, you go through completely different landscapes, from lochs and mountains to white beaches and cliffs. If you have the option, rent a van. And give yourself a little more time on Skye than we did.

08 — Tools I use

What we pack

The apps and services that make our trips easier. Some are affiliate links, they cost you nothing extra.

Accommodation

Agoda

Where we book most of our stays, from guesthouses to family rooms. Every hotel in our guides links straight to it.

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Transport

12Go

Buses, trains, ferries and transfers, booked in a few taps with the ticket on your phone. Super convenient.

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Activities

GetYourGuide

Tours, cruises and day trips all over the world, with free cancellation on most of them. Handy to lock in the big activity before you go.

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Travel insurance

Chapka

Getting sick on the other side of the world without insurance is not an option. Chapka covers adventure activities too.

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Connectivity

Saily eSIM

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Security

NordVPN

Watch your home streaming services from abroad and stay secure on public wifi. Essential for long trips.

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Keep exploring

Where next?

St-Malo
Next adventureSt-Malo5 Days Without a Car in BrittanyRead the guide →