Two weeks from the mountains of the north to the lanterns of Hoi An. Slow enough for a 6 year old and his grandparents, full enough that nobody got bored.
| Day | Stop | What we did |
|---|---|---|
| Day0 | Departure | Evening flight from Vilnius, via Istanbul. |
| Day1 | Hanoi | Landed at 3.30pm. Train Street for Noah, who loves trains, the night market, a cyclo ride and bún chả at Hương Liên. |
| Day2 | Sapa | VIP bus at 7am, in Sapa by 1pm. Rice terraces and Cat Cat village. |
| Day3 | Sapa | Fansipan cable car, the highest peak in Indochina. Love Waterfall, the Lonely Tree of Ô Quy Hồ and the Rồng Mây glass bridge. |
| Day4 | Hanoi | Bus back to Hanoi at 4pm. Phở, and a massage with the blind therapists of Tẩm quất Toàn Phát. |
| Day5 | Cat Ba | Bus at 10.30am. Afternoon at Cát Cò beach, seafood dinner by the harbour. |
| Day6 | Cat Ba | A day on Lan Ha Bay with the Serenity Premium Cruise, with kayaking and lunch on board. |
| Day7 | Ninh Binh | Bus to Ninh Binh in the afternoon, check in at An's Eco Garden. |
| Day8 | Ninh Binh | Boat ride in Tam Cốc, cycling through the rice fields, then the climb to Hang Múa for sunset. Expect people and lots of steps, but it's one of my favourite spots. |
| Day9 | Ninh Binh | Trang An by boat, then the night train to Da Nang. |
| Day10 | Ba Na Hills | Arrived in Da Nang at 12.30pm and went straight up to Ba Na Hills. Night at the Mercure. |
| Day11 | Hoi An | Golden Bridge in the morning before the crowds, then Grab to Hoi An. Lanterns in the old town, BBQ by the river at Ba Tý. |
| Day12 | Cham Island | Speedboat to the island for one night. Clear water, a round basket boat with local fishermen, and a quiet evening once the day trippers leave. |
| Day13 | Hoi An | Back to Hoi An. Cao lầu at the market, a last walk in the old town. |
| Day14 | Departure | Flight from Da Nang at 6.30pm. |




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Simple and affordable. The owner organised all our transport for the rest of the trip.
Book on Agoda→Two nights in the mountains, 4.5M VND for the whole stay.
Book on Agoda→A great price, with a swimming pool that kept Noah happy.
Book on Agoda→We picked it for Noah: you sleep in old vehicles turned into rooms. He loved it.
Also loved: ChezCao Rice Field Ecolodge ↗
Book on Agoda→Staying overnight means far fewer people in the evening and early in the morning. Connecting rooms, handy with the grandparents.
Book on Agoda→I really love this place. Connecting rooms for families, and the first room at the bottom with its outdoor shower is my favourite.
Book on Agoda→Room for 4. We had the top room with the balcony, the views are super nice.
Book on Agoda→Prices are what we paid in April 2024, converted at the time. Always check current rates before booking.
Buses, trains and boats are easy to book on 12Go: a few taps and the ticket is on your phone. Super convenient in Vietnam and across Asia.
What we learned on the way, and what we would tell a friend before they go.
Still possible, but only through the licensed cafés along the tracks. Order a drink, stay seated, and check on the spot because the rules change often.
We went to Tẩm quất Toàn Phát. Really skilled, affordable, better value than the usual massage places, and it truly helps them: finding work is much harder when you are visually impaired.
Fansipan cable car is 800k VND for adults and 550k for kids. It was freezing at the top and we had no jackets, so we could not stay long. Don't make our rookie mistake.
Less crowded, more authentic, and none of the massive cruise boats lined up next to each other.
Most people come for the day from Hanoi. Stay one or two nights, borrow or rent bikes and just cycle through the rice fields. It's really beautiful.
Basket boat rides cost 300k VND per person in Hoi An. On the island we asked the fishermen directly and paid 70k.
Our favourite spots, stop by stop. The rest are in the video.
Sticky rice cooked inside bamboo, purple sticky rice dipped in peanuts, grilled skewers: 10,000 VND each, about 37 cents. Our whole street feast for the family came to 180,000 VND, just under 7€.
We planned this trip around a 6 year old and two grandparents, and it worked. Short bus rides, a night train as an adventure, and enough nights in each place to never feel rushed. Even with school holiday dates, two weeks were enough to see the mountains, the bays and the old towns.
Ninh Binh is one of my favourite places in Vietnam. I prefer Tam Cốc to Trang An: more authentic, less crowded, and you see the rowers paddling with their feet, even if the limestone is a little less dramatic. Sapa has changed a lot over the years but still has plenty to do. Ba Na Hills felt a bit artificial and I hesitated because of the price and the crowds, but we had a great time. Hoi An has become more touristy, yet its charm is still there, and the food is amazing.
If you only take one thing from this guide: sleep in the places everyone else visits for the day. Ninh Binh, Ba Na, Cham Island, they all change once the day trippers leave.
The apps and services that make our trips easier. Some are affiliate links, they cost you nothing extra.

Where we book most of our stays, from guesthouses to family rooms. Every hotel in our guides links straight to it.
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Buses, trains, ferries and transfers across Asia, booked in a few taps with the ticket on your phone. Super convenient.
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Tours, cruises and day trips all over the world, with free cancellation on most of them. Handy to lock in the big activity before you go.
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Watch your home streaming services from abroad and stay secure on public wifi. Essential for long trips.