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Family trip · April 2024

Vietnam North

2 Weeks from Hanoi to Hoi An

Hanoi · Sapa · Lan Ha Bay · Ninh Binh · Hoi An · With Noah and his grandparents

See the day by day↓
01 — Family trip

The trip in motion

02 — The route

Trip at a glance

🇻🇳
North & CentreHanoi to Hoi An · April 2024
Length2 weeks, April
WhoNoah (6), his grandparents and me
PaceEasy, built for a kid and grandparents
Getting aroundVIP buses, a night train, boats, Grab
StopsHanoi · Sapa · Cat Ba · Ninh Binh · Ba Na Hills · Hoi An · Cham Island
RoomsFrom ~19€ to ~83€ a night
VietnamVisa, money & country info→
HanoiSapaCat BaNinh BinhDa NangHoi AnBA NACHAM NIGHT TRAIN LAN HA BAY
By busNight train · boat
03 — Itinerary

Day by day

Two weeks from the mountains of the north to the lanterns of Hoi An. Slow enough for a 6 year old and his grandparents, full enough that nobody got bored.

DayStopWhat we did
Day0DepartureEvening flight from Vilnius, via Istanbul.
Day1HanoiLanded at 3.30pm. Train Street for Noah, who loves trains, the night market, a cyclo ride and bún chả at Hương Liên.
Day2SapaVIP bus at 7am, in Sapa by 1pm. Rice terraces and Cat Cat village.
Day3SapaFansipan cable car, the highest peak in Indochina. Love Waterfall, the Lonely Tree of Ô Quy Hồ and the Rồng Mây glass bridge.
Day4HanoiBus back to Hanoi at 4pm. Phở, and a massage with the blind therapists of Tẩm quất Toàn Phát.
Day5Cat BaBus at 10.30am. Afternoon at Cát Cò beach, seafood dinner by the harbour.
Day6Cat BaA day on Lan Ha Bay with the Serenity Premium Cruise, with kayaking and lunch on board.
Day7Ninh BinhBus to Ninh Binh in the afternoon, check in at An's Eco Garden.
Day8Ninh BinhBoat ride in Tam Cốc, cycling through the rice fields, then the climb to Hang Múa for sunset. Expect people and lots of steps, but it's one of my favourite spots.
Day9Ninh BinhTrang An by boat, then the night train to Da Nang.
Day10Ba Na HillsArrived in Da Nang at 12.30pm and went straight up to Ba Na Hills. Night at the Mercure.
Day11Hoi AnGolden Bridge in the morning before the crowds, then Grab to Hoi An. Lanterns in the old town, BBQ by the river at Ba Tý.
Day12Cham IslandSpeedboat to the island for one night. Clear water, a round basket boat with local fishermen, and a quiet evening once the day trippers leave.
Day13Hoi AnBack to Hoi An. Cao lầu at the market, a last walk in the old town.
Day14DepartureFlight from Da Nang at 6.30pm.
Vinh and Noah with a water buffalo in Sapa
SapaBuffalo friends
Noah at the helm on Lan Ha Bay
Lan Ha BayCaptain Noah
Noah and Vinh on a boat in Hoi An
Hoi AnOn the river
Basket boats off Cham Island
Cham IslandBasket boats

The South is next

We're putting together the South trip right now: Ho Chi Minh City, Dalat and the quiet central coast. Leave your email and you'll get it the day it goes live, with the stories from the road.

04 — Accommodation

Where we stayed

Hanoi · Old Quarter

La Renta Hotel

~24€/ night

Simple and affordable. The owner organised all our transport for the rest of the trip.

Book on Agoda→
Sapa · 2 nights

Laxsik Ecolodge

~83€/ night

Two nights in the mountains, 4.5M VND for the whole stay.

Book on Agoda→
Cat Ba

Cat Ba Spring Homestay

~19€/ night

A great price, with a swimming pool that kept Noah happy.

Book on Agoda→
Ninh Binh · 2 nights

An's Eco Garden Resort

~44€/ night

We picked it for Noah: you sleep in old vehicles turned into rooms. He loved it.

Also loved: ChezCao Rice Field Ecolodge ↗

Book on Agoda→
Ba Na Hills · 1 night

Mercure Ba Na Hills

~78€/ night

Staying overnight means far fewer people in the evening and early in the morning. Connecting rooms, handy with the grandparents.

Book on Agoda→
Hoi An

Hoi An Hideaway

~28€/ night

I really love this place. Connecting rooms for families, and the first room at the bottom with its outdoor shower is my favourite.

Book on Agoda→
Cham Island

Monkey Homestay

~29€/ night

Room for 4. We had the top room with the balcony, the views are super nice.

Book on Agoda→

Prices are what we paid in April 2024, converted at the time. Always check current rates before booking.

05 — Getting around

Bus, train & boat

Buses, trains and boats are easy to book on 12Go: a few taps and the ticket is on your phone. Super convenient in Vietnam and across Asia.

VIP busesThe easy way between Hanoi, Sapa, Cat Ba and Ninh Binh.
Night trainBook early, the 4-berth cabins go fast. It saves a night of accommodation too.
In townGrab, the local Uber. We took one from Da Nang to Hoi An.
06 — Practical tips

Good to know

What we learned on the way, and what we would tell a friend before they go.

Hanoi01

Train Street, the right way

Still possible, but only through the licensed cafés along the tracks. Order a drink, stay seated, and check on the spot because the rules change often.

Hanoi02

Massage with blind therapists

We went to Tẩm quất Toàn Phát. Really skilled, affordable, better value than the usual massage places, and it truly helps them: finding work is much harder when you are visually impaired.

Sapa03

Bring a jacket

Fansipan cable car is 800k VND for adults and 550k for kids. It was freezing at the top and we had no jackets, so we could not stay long. Don't make our rookie mistake.

Cat Ba04

Lan Ha over Ha Long

Less crowded, more authentic, and none of the massive cruise boats lined up next to each other.

Ninh Binh05

Stay, don't day trip

Most people come for the day from Hanoi. Stay one or two nights, borrow or rent bikes and just cycle through the rice fields. It's really beautiful.

Cham Island06

Talk to the fishermen

Basket boat rides cost 300k VND per person in Hoi An. On the island we asked the fishermen directly and paid 70k.

07 — Food

Where to eat

Our favourite spots, stop by stop. The rest are in the video.

Hanoi

2 spots
Bún chả Hương LiênBún chả, and the crab spring rolls
Google Maps ↗
Phở Thìn Bờ HồPhở
Google Maps ↗

Cat Ba

1 spot
Quán Cát BàSeafood by weight. Our feast of lobster and clams came to 2.7M VND for the family
Google Maps ↗

Ninh Binh

1 spot
Ngọc Quốc · Đế NúiGoat, the local speciality, and lá lốt rolls
Google Maps ↗

Da Nang

1 spot
Mì Quảng 1AMì quảng, the noodle dish of the region
Google Maps ↗

Hoi An

3 spots
Ba TýMy absolute favourite. BBQ street food, a few tables at the back on the river, real local prices
Google Maps ↗
Chợ Hội AnBreakfast at the market. Cheap, authentic, try the cao lầu
Google Maps ↗
Bánh mì PhượngThe iconic bánh mì
Google Maps ↗
Street food in Sapa

Everything at 10k

Sticky rice cooked inside bamboo, purple sticky rice dipped in peanuts, grilled skewers: 10,000 VND each, about 37 cents. Our whole street feast for the family came to 180,000 VND, just under 7€.

08 — Verdict

My honest
take

We planned this trip around a 6 year old and two grandparents, and it worked. Short bus rides, a night train as an adventure, and enough nights in each place to never feel rushed. Even with school holiday dates, two weeks were enough to see the mountains, the bays and the old towns.

Ninh Binh is one of my favourite places in Vietnam. I prefer Tam Cốc to Trang An: more authentic, less crowded, and you see the rowers paddling with their feet, even if the limestone is a little less dramatic. Sapa has changed a lot over the years but still has plenty to do. Ba Na Hills felt a bit artificial and I hesitated because of the price and the crowds, but we had a great time. Hoi An has become more touristy, yet its charm is still there, and the food is amazing.

If you only take one thing from this guide: sleep in the places everyone else visits for the day. Ninh Binh, Ba Na, Cham Island, they all change once the day trippers leave.

09 — Tools I use

What we pack

The apps and services that make our trips easier. Some are affiliate links, they cost you nothing extra.

Accommodation

Agoda

Where we book most of our stays, from guesthouses to family rooms. Every hotel in our guides links straight to it.

Find a stay→
Transport

12Go

Buses, trains, ferries and transfers across Asia, booked in a few taps with the ticket on your phone. Super convenient.

Find a ticket→
Activities

GetYourGuide

Tours, cruises and day trips all over the world, with free cancellation on most of them. Handy to lock in the big activity before you go.

Find an activity→
Travel insurance

Chapka

Getting sick on the other side of the world without insurance is not an option. Chapka covers adventure activities too.

Get covered→
Connectivity

Saily eSIM

No more SIM cards at the airport. Install Saily before you leave and land connected in over 150 countries.

LOUVINH15% off
Get Saily→
Security

NordVPN

Watch your home streaming services from abroad and stay secure on public wifi. Essential for long trips.

LOUVINH4 months free
Get NordVPN→
Keep exploring

Where next?

Vietnam
Full country guideVietnamTwo Trips, North and SouthSee the guide →